As dawn greets Can Tho in Vietnam, the city’s river hums to life with the sounds of tour boats churning its waters. Traditional wooden houseboats emerge from the early light, heralding the presence of the Cai Rang Floating Market. Originating from the early 20th century, these floating bazaars were once the lifeblood of southern Vietnam’s commerce and culture. However, in the wake of Vietnam’s rapid economic expansion over the past two decades, the market has significantly shrunk, with only two of the region’s original 10 major markets still visible to the public eye.
Linh, a seasoned local guide, recalls a time when the market spanned much larger, now struggling to reach a third of its former size. The boats, once numerous, have dwindled to around 200 today, while nearby Phong Dien market has similarly shrunk to mere vestiges, disappearing from many tourist itineraries altogether. Cai Be, another once-thriving market in Ben Tre province, has ceased to exist, shuttering for good in 2021.
Despite these changes, the floating market still operates as a place for boats to ferry produce from the larger wholesalers back to land markets. For many vendors, their boats double as homes, where they carry out daily life, from cooking to relaxing, all while navigating the challenges of their diminishing livelihood. Phuc, a pineapple seller, shares her concerns over the faltering business, noting that the market’s health is precarious, contingent on tourist seasons. The rise of land-based trade, spurred by improved infrastructure, has largely supplanted river trade, affecting Phuc and her husband’s livelihoods.
Similar sentiments are echoed by Tuyen, a wholesaler of onions, garlic, and sweet potatoes, who finds her income barely covering costs. The COVID-19 pandemic exacerbated these issues, prompting many vendors to seek alternative employments on land. Additionally, the construction of flood prevention walls along the Can Tho river’s banks has inadvertently hindered river-based trade, along with cultural shifts where younger generations are veering away from their parents’ occupations, seeking modern career paths.
The significance of Cai Rang seems almost lost on the residents of Can Tho, who now prefer shopping in supermarkets and malls. Yet, despite these shifts, tourism remains a critical component of the city’s economy, with the floating market serving as its main attraction. Given the fluctuating tourism numbers affected by the pandemic, efforts to revitalize the market for tourists might involve turning the focus from its commercial function to a more diversified, appealing experience, as seen in markets across Bangkok.
Nonetheless, any attempt to revitalize the market risks diluting its authenticity and cultural essence. As the day ends at Cai Rang, the vendors retire to their boats, their futures uncertain. Linh anticipates the market’s closure within a few years, prompting the need to seek new employment. This grim outlook suggests that the once-vibrant symbol of Vietnamese trade and culture may soon be a relic of the past.
Source: https://www.aljazeera.com/features/2025/2/28/vietnams-floating-markets-face-uncertain-future-as-life-moves-onshore?traffic_source=rss
