Prada has admitted that their new leather sandal design was inspired by India’s famous Kolhapuri “chappals,” after facing criticism for not acknowledging the footwear’s origins. In a letter to the Maharashtra chamber of commerce, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s corporate social responsibility chief, acknowledged that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with a centuries-old heritage.
The chamber had complained on behalf of thousands of Kolhapuri sandal makers after Prada’s Milan runway show featured models wearing sandals that closely resembled the unisex Indian originals. The Indian government had granted the Kolhapuri sandals “geographical indication” status in 2019, verifying their origins in the 12th century city of Kolhapur in western Maharashtra state.
The buffalo-hide shoes, known for their durability and distinctive braided T-strap design, are worn by people from different backgrounds in India. However, the sight of models walking the runway in similarly designed sandals, described as “leather flat sandals,” triggered a backlash in India and charges of cultural appropriation.
This controversy has highlighted the broader debate about how global fashion houses often repackage traditional craftsmanship as luxury goods without properly crediting or compensating the original artisans. Indian artisans and small-scale producers excel in craftsmanship, but they lack access to capital or business acumen to position their products globally as luxury goods.
While some argue that this row could have a positive impact, as it may boost interest in the classic Kolhapuri sandal design among younger consumers in India, others believe that Prada’s decision not to name their sandals as “Kolharpuri” is a form of cultural appropriation.
Source: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/jun/30/prada-accused-of-cashing-in-on-indian-culture-with-kolhapuri-inspired-sandals
