Nigeria: The Rich Tapestry of Spirituality and Horseback Festivals

Nigeria, the most populous nation on the African continent, is also home to the largest Muslim population in Africa.

Primarily in the Muslim-dominated northern regions, diverse ethnic groups such as the Hausas and Fulanis coexist. The past decade, however, has seen the north marred by instability and violence, primarily due to clashes with criminals and terrorist groups like Boko Haram.

Despite the turmoil, residents in the region take pride in a vibrant tapestry of cultural traditions.

Throughout Ramadan, cities in the north significantly quiet down. With many staying indoors to escape the heat and dedicate themselves to spiritual activities such as attending lectures or reading the Quran, there is a distinct shift towards a more contemplative atmosphere.

Each year, the culmination of Ramadan marks the time for the Durbar festival.

These Durbars are an amalgamation of cultural, religious, and equestrian events, deeply rooted among the Hausas for centuries. One of the most notable is the Kano City Durbar, which sees a vibrant assembly of hundreds of thousands, dressed in elaborate Eid attire, eagerly awaiting a glimpse of the emir – equivalent to a king – often dressed in ceremonial regalia and on horseback.

Muhammad Sani Sabo, a Kano-based photographer, has been capturing Durbars and daily life in the city since 2014. Sabo, now 31, aspires through his lens to showcase a multifaceted representation of the north to dismantle widespread perceptions associated with poverty, illiteracy, and conflict.

“There’s a richer narrative about the north,” Sabo shares with Al Jazeera. “I know these stories and believe I can share them more authentically than any outsider.”

In Kano, during the 2023 Ramadan, women and girls attend community gatherings, where the focus is on Quranic lectures and spiritual growth. Such gatherings often include communal meals or gifts shared to promote the spirit of generosity.

Among the highlight of Kano Durbar, the 15th Emir of Kano, Ado Bayero, rides a horse. Famed for their martial prowess and horsemanship, the Hausas draw from ancient war parades that signalled their preparation for battle. Nowadays, Durbar festivals pay homage to this legacy while marking the end of Ramadan with vibrant procession led by the Emir, accompanied by his retinue of warriors, soldiers, and musical praises.

In April 2024, families in Kano eagerly await outside the Emir’s palace to witness the Durbar procession. Celebrating Eid, or the Sallah festival, in the Hausa language, involves donning new, stylish traditional attire and relishing in the splendour of the Emir’s dazzling outfit and entourage.