Under the warm glow of the May sun, the sweet scent of lemon groves fills the air, their winter protection netting recently removed. The trees, already bearing pale yellow fruit, line a narrow footpath that ascends steep cliffs overlooking the town of Amalfi.
After leaving the main street of this namesake settlement on the Amalfi Coast, I’ve been alone for the past hour as I took a turn for the challenging Valle delle Ferriere hike, avoiding the well-known summer crowds on Italy’s famous coastline, a testament to both natural beauty and human ingenuity.
Visiting in spring is not only a way to eschew the peak tourist season but also for me, the ideal months along the coast when one can partake in local religious festivals, embark on refreshing hikes adorned with blossoms, and enjoy special Easter treats.
Hotel Santa Caterina, a historic Amalfi Coast establishment still owned by the family who converted their home into guest accommodations, is a notable example of this springtime charm. The hotel prides itself on accommodating guests during the shoulder seasons, opening in mid-March and closing in October, offering a different experience from the main tourist season.
The hotel, located just outside Amalfi, boasts rooms with a tranquil, 1950s coastal glamour, and its terraced grounds of trees and bushes, which are at their peak in spring, are maintained by an array of gardeners. A beach club is accessible below, either by a lift or a cliffside staircase weaving through lemon groves and vibrant bougainvillaea. The terrace bar is adorned with wisteria, its deep purple blossoms heralding the arrival of summer.
The coastal hiking trails are particularly inviting in spring, made more agreeable by the cooler temperatures. One such path commences from the upper end of Amalfi’s Main Street, past the gaudy souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants, leading to the Paper Museum, a testament to Amalfi’s historical paper-making legacy.
Beyond this, the trail of Valle delle Ferriere etches its way through a scenic grove, near abandoned mills, and past inviting, yet chilling, streams and waterfalls, most abundant during this verdant season.
Aligning your visit with Easter allows you to witness heartfelt local religious festivals. On Good Friday, a dramatic procession of hooded figures carrying the Dead Christ is illuminated by torchlight. You can also indulge in pastiera, a Neapolitan speciality made with ricotta cheese, cooked wheat, and fragrant orange elements.
Peak season on the Amalfi Coast is often accompanied by the hassle of overbooked amenities and uncomfortably crowded spaces. In contrast, spring gifts a more tranquil experience – a near-solitary walk along lemon-scented paths, guaranteed beach lounging, and serene table views of the stunning coastline.
Upon my departure at the end of May, a gentle sweep of fallen wisteria blossoms symbolizes the end of a serene spring, beckoning the arrival of summer as remarked by a waiter, signifying a shift from the calm solitude of spring to the vibrant energy of summer.
Source: https://www.euronews.com/travel/2025/05/31/save-the-amalfi-coast-for-spring-to-escape-the-crowds-and-hike-beneath-lemon-blossom
