We found ourselves in the midst of controlled chaos as our journey began. Luggage carts weaved around cars, and the sidewalks became temporary residences for travelers waiting for their buses. Minibuses sped through without regard for pedestrians. After passing a security guard at a sliding gate who granted us access by announcing our destination, “Blue Train,” we proceeded to Cape Town’s central train station. Two butlers, dressed in white gloves and blue vests, greeted us and escorted us into a luxurious waiting room, serving a spread of refreshments which was a stark contrast to the adjacent, less fortunate bus travelers. This opulent treatment was part of our indulgence on South Africa’s legendary Blue Train, a two-night, 994-mile journey experience, turning a two-hour flight (and a 45-minute drive) from Cape Town to Pretoria into an adventure filled with pampering and stunning views. Founded over a century ago, the Blue Train catered to the wealthy, offering exclusivity and a separate world from the urban commotion. This exclusivity, however, highlighted the stark contrast to the poverty outside the train’s windows, a reality that I, as the Johannesburg bureau chief of The Times, was deeply aware of, given South Africa’s status as the world’s most unequal nation, according to the World Bank. Our butler escorted us to our suite, one of 37 on the 18-car train, where we found luxurious amenities and plush decorations, including a bathtub with a gold, hand-held showerhead. Despite the train’s historic desegregation and the country’s legal end to apartheid, the trip reminded me of the persistent inequality when I noticed we were among only four Black passengers in a predominantly white crowd. The price of the journey, preventing many from experiencing it, underlined this issue. While waiting to depart, we learned that the train had been delayed due to damages from someone throwing stones, symbolizing a broader societal discontent with the display of wealth and privilege in the country. As the train ventured through varied landscapes, from urban townships to breathtaking mountains, the journey became a spectacle of South Africa’s diversity. Yet, the contrasting abundance on the train against the destitution seen from the windows, represented the country’s broader problems of crime, corruption, and economic struggle, issues that were quite evident in the conversations among passengers reflecting on the country’s changes over the years. The Blue Train, while offering a glimpse of South Africa’s complexity and beauty, also served as a stark reminder of the nation’s unresolved inequalities and its journey towards reconciliation and growth.

Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/03/25/travel/south-africa-blue-train.html