In February, Henry Hurren, 32, experienced a challenging surfing session lasting almost two hours in the rough waters off an almost uninhabited island in Hong Kong. Despite strong winds, he tried to catch short waves for mere moments at a time.
His journey began with a half-hour ferry ride from the main island, filled with day trippers and families enjoying their Sunday. Dressed in a wetsuit, Mr. Hurren passed through outdoor restaurants and camping areas to reach the point from which he would paddle out.
However, upon entering the water, solitude enveloped him as he sought to discover new surfing spots in a city where they are scarce.
Among surfers, the wave off Tung Lung Chau is known for being a difficult slab that breaks over rocks, offering a far cry from the serene experience found in popular surf destinations like Bali. Mr. Hurren, a nature guide and surfing instructor, shared his adventures on his Instagram page, explaining that surfing slabs is an intense, concentrated version of the sport.
While many surfers avoid slabs, Hong Kong’s surfing scene predominantly takes place on a number of accessible beaches that lack consistent swells throughout the year. The city’s 7.5 million residents have limited access to ideal surf conditions.
Big Wave Bay, located on the east coast of Hong Kong Island, is the most frequented beach, though the waves there are usually small and unpredictable. This spot combines sand with a nearby village and can be reached by taxi in about 20 minutes from Hong Kong’s well-known skyline.
Known to be a crowded venue, Big Wave Bay is used by swimmers and standup paddle boarders, which sometimes leads to tension in the water. Recently, the government started enforcing rules against surfing at this location, according to locals.
A shop near the beach even installed a sign explaining surf etiquette, including an illustration of a surfer reacting to being hit by another’s board with a Cantonese expletive.
Mr. Hurren, a longtime surfer of Big Wave Bay, admits the atmosphere can be hostile to beginners. Yet, the surf community’s progress depends on finding and sharing more spots suitable for all levels.
He believes that Hong Kong surfing’s special nature requires a strong belief in its potential and a collaborative spirit among enthusiasts.
Mavis Lai, 41, who grew up in Hong Kong without knowing local surfing was possible, took up the sport during a weeklong camp in the Canary Islands after moving to London. Upon returning to Hong Kong in 2015, she first worked as a surfing coach before becoming a sports therapist.
Reflecting on her experience, Ms. Lai noticed how skilled local surfers in Thailand were despite their limited swell, which made her think Hong Kong might have the most challenging conditions. Nevertheless, she surfs Big Wave Bay several times a week during the winter season, scheduling her work around forecasts to make the most of the surf opportunities.
Other Hong Kong surfers seek out swells across the border in China’s Guangdong province. Clark Wang, who operates a surf hostel and teaches surfing in Shanwei, noticed an increase in visitors from Hong Kong, estimating they now constitute about a quarter of Shanwei’s surfers.
Rohan Rajpal, a financial technology worker, regularly surfs in Shanwei and at Big Wave Bay. He prefers the water conditions in Hong Kong but values the variety of waves in Shanwei.
Mr. Hurren spent a decade surfing waves he initially thought were beyond his reach, proving that perseverance and belief in possibilities can lead to new discoveries and a more vibrant surfing community in Hong Kong.
He vividly recalls first spotting the wave off Tung Lung Chau as a teenager, only to begin surfing it last year after years of searching for the perfect takeoff spot.
It was on a windy February Sunday that he caught the surfer’s attention upon seeing his board. This encounter led to a shared moment of surf culture and camaraderie typical of the Hong Kong surfing community.
Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/04/03/world/asia/hong-kong-surfers.html