For centuries, individuals residing around Japan’s Lake Suwa in the central mountains have acknowledged the start of winter through the observation of a unique natural event revered as the trail left by a roaming deity. This phenomenon, known as the Miwatari, or sacred passage, only appeared after a period of severe cold weather, transforming the lake into a solid white sheet. The event began with a loud rumbling sound at night, revealing a jagged, narrow ridge of ice across the lake’s surface, resembling a dragon’s spined back. Although the appearance of the Miwatari provoked a sense of awe and reverence, its absence in certain winters was taken as a reminder of the disruption of nature’s balance.
Historically, records have been diligently kept regarding whether the Miwatari appeared, the condition of the lake, and any historical events that accompanied its presence. These chronicled observations have continued for over 580 years, creating a unique historical archive that documents the regional weather patterns of monotonous cold winters. In recent decades, however, the chronicles of Suwa have conveyed a new and more alarming narrative. Over the past seven winters, the Miwatari has failed to appear due to the lake not freezing over. This prolonged absence has only happened once before, several centuries ago.
According to Kiyoshi Miyasaka, the chief priest at Yatsurugi Shrine, which is responsible for maintaining the records, the regular occurrence of the Miwatari has not been seen since the 1980s. He and other locals attribute this disappearance to the effects of global climate change. Miyasaka, along with dozens of worshippers, still gather at dawn from January to February to see if the Miwatari has reappeared, only to be disappointed consistently.
Elderly residents recall when the Miwatari was significant enough to wake them and could be heard as loud as taiko drumming. Today, it has mostly lost its religious significance and is seen as a local winter tradition, which is participated in by the city’s mayor.
Although science has explained the formation of ice ridges, the Suwa records are unique because of their extensive historical details, stretching back centuries. Dagomar Degroot, a professor of environmental history at Georgetown University, recognizes the rarity of such detailed and continuous cultural records.
Despite the disappointment of the recent absences of the Miwatari, Miyasaka intends to continue the tradition, emphasizing the importance of keeping alive a legacy of over 580 years. Neither Miyasaka nor his followers take the absence to mean they have been forsaken by a deity. They understand the narrative shift in their history as an indicator of global warming.
Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/03/28/world/asia/japan-climate-lake.html
