A river of fire from the depths of the Earth carves its way through the black rocks of a snow-capped mountain. Above, the setting sun tints the clouds red. Fountains of lava that explode from a crater soar hundreds of meters into the air and Mount Etna’s roar echoes across the Sicilian sky.

Its recent eruptions were a breathtaking spectacle, drawing thousands of tourists and unwary daytrippers – many there for a selfie. For some, the outcome was catastrophic.

Dozens of people went missing last week and were recovered late at night suffering from hypothermia. Many sustained various injuries as hundreds of cars blocked the streets and prevented rescue services from reaching those in need of assistance. Authorities threatened to report imprudent visitors to the police and introduced restrictions to stay away from the magma.

“They have turned a volcano into a playground,” said Luca Ferlito, commander of the operational unit of Sicily’s Guardia Forestale. Many of them were completely unequipped. We saw all sorts of scenes. People approaching the lava flow in high heels and miniskirts, people in shorts, someone started roasting sausages, others were taking shirtless photos near the lava. A couple brought a six-month-old baby; an American man showed up in jeans, a T-shirt, and crutches. We stopped a 70-year-old tourist who was wearing cotton trousers and summer rubber shoes.

The Guardians joined rescue services on Mount Etna who had been brought in to assist residents and curb the flow of tourists and daytrippers.

But Etna is not just a ski resort. It is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and has been in explosive form in recent weeks. Accompanied by rescuers, the Guardian trekked to the lava, across fragile ash terrain blanketed in ice where rocks from an eruption more than a year ago still smolder and temperatures hover near -5C.

Not everyone has welcomed the restrictions. Guides and nearby residents complain that it is unfair that people are not allowed to enjoy the beauty of their own territory, due to the restrictions introduced by the mayors.

“I witnessed the latest eruption, and before leaving – by then in darkness – I turned for one last look at the lava,” Cannata said. “The scene before me was magical: the crowd of visitors had grown, each person moving around the flow with a small light on their head. It felt as if we were all part of a pilgrimage to Mother Nature.

“In that moment,” she said, “I realised how important it is to continue being moved by the beauty of nature. Etna is a symbol of that beauty, and it deserves to be respected but also experienced.”

Source: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/feb/28/etna-eruptions-cause-despair-among-mountain-rescuers