Gabriela Hearst, known for her commitment to sustainable fashion, has showcased a collection featuring vintage mink coats at Paris Fashion Week. Hearst repurposed old mink coats from Italy, embracing the concept of reusing rather than discarding. The collection also included faux fur made from silk schappe, a leftover from silk processing, and real python from Inversa, an “ethical exotics” company sourcing from invasive species.
This move by Hearst reflects a complex shift in attitudes towards fur in the fashion industry. While some argue against real fur for animal welfare reasons, others criticize fake fur as environmentally unsustainable due to its often plastic-based composition. This has sparked a moral debate, particularly amongst Gen Z, redefining the boundaries of what is considered acceptable in fashion.
Paris Fashion Week has also seen a departure from grand, stadium-like runway shows to more intimate gatherings, emphasizing a closer, personal connection with the audience. This trend is seen in the Fallen on the Frontline collection by Balenciaga, where the catwalk was reduced to the width of a sidewalk and the audience were seated in simple black office chairs without a seating plan. The emphasis on immediacy and the tactile experience of fashion echoed similar sentiments from other designers like Sarah Burton at Givenchy.
At Schiaparelli, models were sprayed with fragrance just before stepping onto the runway, further accentuating the theme of closeness and personal experience. The collection included straightforward black business suits with Fallen on the Frontline’s logo, suggesting a blend of high fashion with everyday attire.
Hearst’s collection seems to resonate with the current vibe shift in fashion, where “boom boom” — a term signifying ostentatious extravagance and a redefined masculinity and femininity — is on the rise, epitomized by the mink coat. The revival of real fur in a sustainable context challenges conventional norms and offers a fresh perspective on luxury and sustainability in fashion.
Source: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2025/mar/10/skin-in-the-game-mink-coat-at-ethical-fashion-show-fuels-sustainability-debate
