Nunzia Caputo was five years old when her grandmother ended her street play in Bari and told her to learn the art of making orecchiette, a pasta traditionally made in the southern Italian city, for sale to passersby.
“I used to spend my afternoons playing with my friend Giulia, but one day, my grandmother insisted I learn to make orecchiette instead. I was heartbroken,” said Caputo, now 67 years old.
Despite her initial tears at her first imperfect tries, Caputo became skilled at transforming semolina dough into thin, rolled shapes with a characteristic concave edge using her thumb.
From her home on Via dell’Arco Basso in Bari’s old town, Caputo has become the most renowned of the “pasta grannies,” selling her pasta daily to both locals and tourists.
This historic street, known for its grannies, homemade pasta, and lively atmosphere, has become a major tourist attraction, transforming an unsafe area into a prosperous spot for the women and the city.
The rapid success has brought complications, such as allegations that some “pasta grannies” were selling industrially produced pasta as homemade, leading to fines and protests. Police raids confiscated orecchiette and pasta-making tools.
The investigation, initiated by Bari’s prosecutors, is ongoing to determine the truth behind the accusations of commercial fraud and food safety violations.
Questions over authenticity intensified due to Bari’s significant boost in tourism, particularly from cruise ships.
Some tourists and journalists allege that certain pasta makers were selling industrial orecchiette, packaged in clear plastic bags to look homemade. Cardboard boxes from pasta factories were found discarded near the old town.
Caputo, a renowned pasta granny who hosts classes and travels worldwide to promote the tradition, including a meeting with late Pope Francis, expressed her shock at the police action, feeling as though they were treating the women “as if they were dealing in guns or drugs.”
The women have shown unity in the face of the raids, but the undercurrents of rivalry exist. One maker admitted to selling the industrial product due to high tourist demand.
Local authorities support the tradition but are ensuring all producers follow the rules regarding the sale of homemade versus commercial pasta.
Despite the investigation and legal complaints against the tradition of selling homemade pasta for tourism, Caputo remains committed, preparing for a trip to Singapore to further promote this pasta tradition.
Source: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/sep/27/barricades-in-bari-pasta-grannies-under-scrutiny-italy
